There are multiple issues you can face when trying to maintain a lawn, here we’ll take a look at the most common and cover what options you have for tackling them.

Moss

Probably the number one issue for lawns in this area.  There are many ways to tackle the moss in your lawn but if the underlying reason for the moss growing is not addressed the moss will continue to come back again and again.  Moss is caused by damp conditions, while we can’t do anything about the weather you can address drainage issues and compacted soil in your lawn.  A good starting point is to regularly aerate the soil by pushing a garden fork about 10cm deep into your lawn every 10cm and gently rocking back and forth on the fork handle. The prongs open up the soil, allowing the roots to breathe and help surface water to drain away.  Excess thatch can also create the perfect environment for moss to thrive.  Thatch is a natural build up of dead grass and roots.

Manually – grab a rake (or scarifier) and physically remove the moss and thatch.  This method while labour intensive is cheap (free if you already have a rake) and safe for kids or pets.

Chemical – Sulphate of Iron (ferrous sulphate) is regularly used in commercial moss killers such as lawn sand.  It works by dehydrating the moss, killing it quickly and causing it to go black within a couple of days.  Although the moss is killed it still needs to be removed from the lawn and can look unsightly until done.  The chemical can also cause permanent staining on paving, patios etc so should be applied with care.  Pets and kids should be kept off the treated area for at least 24 hours.

Bacteria – Organic beneficial bacteria which naturally break down moss and thatch.  The process can take 6-8 weeks but there is no need to remove dead moss as it breaks down and becomes fertiliser for your lawn sufficient for up to 12 weeks.   

Weeds

Clover, daisy, buttercup, dandelions……. The list of weeds that will invade your lawn if given the chance is almost endless.  Weeds are opportunistic and will compete with your lawn for nutrients, water, sunlight etc While it’s not possible to avoid weeds completely you can help stop the spread by mowing your lawn at the correct height, cutting too low is called scalping and it can weaken your lawn to the point it will not be able to fight off weeds or diseases.  Always keep your mower blade sharp as well, otherwise it will tear the grass causing damage.

Manually – As it sounds, using a tool to remove large weeds and their root (if the root remains the weed will be back).

Chemical – Using a selective herbicide formulated with active ingredients which target broad leaved weeds but leave grass blades unharmed.

Diseases

Most lawn diseases are caused by either poor conditions or, the poor health of the lawn.  Too much/little fertiliser, too much/little water, mowed too low, compaction, too much thatch etc. Once the issue is resolved the lawn’s health will improve and the disease should disappear. Occasionally treatment may be required but fungicides for lawns are no longer available for the public to purchase, you would need to hire in a professional for this.

Red Thread

The disease can develop any time of year but more common during wet Summer/Autumn particularly where the lawn is deficient in nitrogen.  Scarifying/aerating  the lawn and applying a nitrogen feed such as sulphate of ammonia should be sufficient to control it (it should not however be applied any later than August).

Microdochium Patch (Fuscrium)

Small circular yellow patches that can reach up to 30cm in diameter. More common in spring and autumn, generally caused by too much moisture but also over feeding in the autumn. Keep the lawn as dry as is possible, cut back any overhanging shrubs or trees to increase airflow and sunlight and if you do feed the lawn in august ensure it is a specialised autumn feed which is low in nitrogen.

Leaf Spot

Again caused by too much moisture in the lawn and too much fertiliser (which forces weak fast growth). Keep the lawn as dry as is possible, cut back any overhanging shrubs or trees to increase airflow and sunlight.  Consider not feeding or use a balanced lawn feed that is not nitrogen heavy.

Rust

Will cause patches in your lawn that turn yellow caused by large numbers of spore-producing pustules during wet Summer/Autumn time.  It is temporary, to speed up the repair process simply ensure that your lawn is regularly fed, mowed and if required aerated.

Snow Mould

Closely related to Microdochium patch, affects lawn in colder weather and thrives in lawns with poor air circulation.  Is more likely to appear once the lawn has been covered in snow (hence the name) as this provides the perfect conditions for it to thrive.  As with microdochium patch keep the lawn as dry as is possible.  Cut back any overhanging shrubs or trees to increase airflow and sunlight, consider removing heavy morning dews with a long rod or bamboo cane.